27. 08.
Part 3
Just got back from our first really big adventure, and it was ‘out of this world’. In talking to some locals, we decided to sail from Mackay out to Scawfell Island, a distance of 22nm, and stay in a really safe all weather anchorage at Refuge Bay. We planned to stay a couple of nights, but the weather forecast indicated strong winds a few days into the future, so we were prepared for a longer stay.
The trip out on Monday was perfect, 10 - 15kn on a shy reach, Ian helmed all the way without a single tack. Our navigation skills are improving, and we sailed directly there without any hassles. We anchored off shore the first night but then moved closer inshore so that we could ‘bottom out’ at low tide. This means we lift the centerboard/keel and let the boat sit on the sand. For several hours we then have access to all the beach facilities (a drop toilet and a dry rainwater tank), and a boat that does not move. Because the weather did indeed turn nasty, this last point ensured at least a couple of hours of lovely peaceful sleep. Several larger boats that we spoke to envied our ability to bottom out. We ate very well including roast lamb (cooked to perfection in our Cobb cooker), Thai warm beef chilli salad, curried beef etc. Marie even made a date loaf using the Cobb cooker and skills she learnt from her Mum who, when camping, could make birthday cakes in a frypan - what a woman!
Ian was concerned by Thursday that he only had 2 beers left, and was starting to wonder about the ability to brew beer from a dry water tank on a desert island. We decide to sail out on Saturday, although the forecast was at the upper end of our comfort zone. With the help of Marie’s brother Mick, we have been working on our heavy weather sailing skills and decided to put them to the test. The wind was 20-25kn,would again be a shy reach, but with 2m waves in a washing machine type sea. We put up a small amount of sail and handled the trip really well, if slowly, the waves settling during the afternoon.
The next day Marie was talking to a woman in the laundry (yes the cruising life is not all about drinking Chardonnay and eating things on biscuits) and another woman approached and asked if we were the small boat that had sailed into the marina on Saturday from Scawfell. I confirmed that we were, and she then told be that they had also sailed in on Saturday, and when her Year 12 son saw us sail into the marina, he said that if we could do the trip in ‘that small boat’, he would never woos again! There was a bit of discussion around the Marina about our exploits, but I can assure you all that we were never at risk, and we sailed safely, conservatively and delightfully the whole way.
Enough of the boring sailing stuff. I want to tell you a delightful story about Sophie the wonder dog, who belongs to a local couple Jan and David (who advised us about Scawfell). On the way out to Scawfell, you have to pass St Bee’s Island where Jan and David were motor cruising last year with their dog Sophie, a beautiful dark grey cattle dog. About 5 miles off St Bees they realised that Sophie was no longer onboard and immediately went into man overboard mode (or should that be bitch overboard?) Despite searching for many hours they were unable to locate her, and returned to Mackay much saddened by their loss.
Five months later, they received a report from a friend who had heard at a dinner party that there was a feral dog living on St Bees, and subsisting on fresh water and feral goats. Inquiries revealed that it was a cattle dog, which the rangers caught and returned to Mackay Harbour. The reunion was amazing, and even the sailors on the launch were crying. Sophie was delighted to see Jan and David, and acted as if nothing had happened and wanted to get into the car and go home.
A vet visit shortly thereafter revealed that Sophie was in excellent health if a little tatty, and her teeth were in perfect condition from dining on goat bones. She has become quite famous with reports of her exploits being sent all over the world, and a possible movie in the offing. As Jan and David cannot keep up with the requests for photo shoots, appearances and movies, Sophie is now being managed by Harry M. Miller. Despite all of this, Sophie is a delightfully friendly dog and a wonderful family pet.
I think you have all suffered enough with a sailing story and a lost dog story, so with apologies to Paul, Kate, Claire, Beth, Mark, Lachie and all the other Trekkies out there.
Part 4
So many adventures to tell you about and so little time!
Since my last communiqué we have moved up the coast to Airlie Beach and we are using the local Sailing Club as our base (warm showers and hot lattes). It is costing the astronomical sum of $1.10 per day to get full member privileges. They have made us feel very welcome and we are enjoying the fast paced tourist resort type town. There are backpackers all over the place and many languages, sure feels like we are not in Bendigo Toto.
We were anchored off South Molle Island last week and a passing dinghy invited us to lunch with them on prawns and wine, they thought our boat was cute. They were on a 50 foot charter boat (a Bavaria) and it was beautiful, and so it should be for over $1000 per day. We had a terrific time, and went into the resort for pre dinner drinks and many cocktails later, and no dinner, we managed to navigate our way back to the boat. Now I have been having some difficulty getting from the small inflatable dinghy onto our boat, but after several Pina Coladas, several Kamikazes and several things with umbrellas in them, it was remarkably easy and graceful, slept very well that night.
We have also spent several nights at Nara Inlet which is beautiful, and offers a short walk up to a cave that has some aboriginal cave paintings that visitors are welcome to peruse. The indigenous Ngaro people have been very generous in sharing this treasure, and as I have never seen cave paintings before, I was really amazed.
We keep catching up with people that we have met previously, and it is like seeing old friends after years of separation. There are several boats in the area that we keep in radio contact with, and try to cross paths every so often.
Most of the popular anchorages are very busy, and it would not be unusual to have between 20 and 50 boats moored there. We have found a little inlet called Bluff inlet which is about 3 nM from Airlie Beach and never another boat. It is a wonderful find, and may be the one that Dad was talking about. Sometimes it is just good to get away from the crowds!
There is a small 18 foot boat permanently anchored close to Airlie Beach. We always say hello to the owner Wayne who lives aboard, and his nephew Bob who is staying for a few months. Wayne is an invalid pensioner who does not like to pay rent, and who loves being on the water. The other day they called us over and gave us some shark fillets that they had caught. It was marinated in garlic, oil and lemon and was about the most delicious thing I have ever tasted.
I am amazed at the variety of people that we are meeting. Tim and Diana on the charter yacht who are seriously wealthy and have serious fun sharing it, and Wayne and Bob who have very little but share it just the same. It is humbling.
We are planning to stay in this area for quite a while yet as there are still so many places to explore. All those travel shows and postcards you may have seen do not do justice to the beauty of this area, it is gob smacking. Just to give an example of this, the other day I was sitting on the Porta Potti enjoying the view out of the companionway (door for you landlubbers), when 2 dolphins started playing around outside. It was great. Hopefully, I have been able to gross out Eleanor and a few others with that little anecdote, and I will leave you all with that thought in your heads.
Cheers
Marie and Ian
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